THE CITY OF FOOD DEVOTION
San Sebastián (or Donostia in Basque) is widely considered one of the world's premier gastronomic capitals. On the coast of the Bay of Biscay, this small city boasts a staggering concentration of Michelin stars per capita, second only to Kyoto, including legendary three-star institutions like Arzak and Akelarre. However, for most visitors, the true heart of the city’s food culture isn't found in white-tablecloth dining rooms, but in the lively, chaotic, and utterly delicious world of its Old Town bars. Here, food is more than sustenance; it is a religion, a social activity, and a way of life that draws food lovers from every corner of the globe.
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The crown jewel of San Sebastián’s culinary scene is the pintxo (pronounced "peen-cho"). Distinct from the tapas found elsewhere in Spain, pintxos are miniature culinary masterpieces, often piled high on slices of baguette and pierced with a cocktail stick to hold them together. Walking into a bar in the Parte Vieja (Old Town) is a sensory overload: counters are groaning under the weight of platters filled with cured hams, anchovies, peppers, and elaborate creations. The local custom is txikiteo, hopping from bar to bar, enjoying one pintxo and a small glass of wine (txakoli) or beer (zurito) at each stop before moving on to the next.
Knowing where to eat is an art form in itself. For a classic experience, Gandarias Taberna is an institution, famous for its hanging jamón ibérico and melt-in-your-mouth beef cheeks. Just a stone’s throw away is Atari Gastroleku, located on the steps of the Santa Maria Church. It’s a favourite for its buzzy atmosphere and excellent gin and tonics, perfect for washing down a plate of their salty grilled squid. If you prefer hot dishes made to order, Bar Borda Berri is unmissable. They don't display food on the counter; instead, you order from the blackboard. Their veal cheeks and mushroom risotto made with Idiazabal cheese are legendary.
For those willing to venture off the beaten path, hidden gems like La Cuchara de San Telmo offer a more modern take on Basque flavours. Tucked away in a corner, this narrow bar serves exclusively hot, made-to-order dishes. Their foie gras with apple compote and crispy pig’s ear is rich, decadent, and worth fighting the crowds for. If you need a break from standing, places like Meson Portaletas offer a more traditional sit-down experience that is particularly family-friendly, serving tender octopus (pulpo) and cod in a rustic setting that welcomes children and large groups.
Beyond the pintxos bars, San Sebastián offers unique seasonal experiences. From January to April, the region celebrates Txotx season, where locals flock to traditional cider houses (sagardotegis) in the nearby hills. Here, you can drink unlimited cider caught directly from giant wooden barrels and feast on set menus of salt cod omelettes and massive chuleta steaks. Back in the city, the Mercado de la Bretxa allows visitors to see where chefs shop for the freshest seafood and seasonal produce, offering a glimpse into the high standards that drive the local cuisine.
Photo by Mykhailo Volkov
For those seeking an elevated dining experience, the city’s Michelin-starred restaurants are a major draw. San Sebastián consistently ranks among the top destinations globally for fine dining, with multiple establishments awarded stars for their excellence. These kitchens blend respect for local tradition with avant-garde creativity, offering tasting menus that are as memorable for their storytelling as they are for their taste.
Navigating this food paradise can be overwhelming, but a few tips make it easier. First, don't be afraid to ask the bartender for their "speciality" if you're unsure what to order. Second, while the Old Town is the most famous area, neighbourhoods like Gros offer a more local, relaxed vibe (try Bar Bergara there). Finally, don't worry about booking tables for pintxos bars, just dive into the crowd, find a spot at the counter, and embrace the chaos. Whether you are taking a guided food tour or exploring on your own, San Sebastián promises a culinary adventure that will leave you planning your next meal before you've even finished the first.